[ WINES ]
5 first times.
from Reeze Choi, Hong Kong, China
Taking third place in the ASI Best Sommelier of the World competition in February 2024 in Paris, behind Latvia’s Raimonds Tomsons and Denmark’s Nina Jensen, Hong Kong candidate Reeze Choi has enjoyed meteoric success in the world of wine. A keen learner, he worked his way up from being a waiter to the Atelier Robuchon in Hong Kong, moving up the ranks of the international sommelier industry one step at a time. He takes a look back over each new start to his career, from new beginnings to renewal.
“The more I learn about wine, the more I realise how little I know.”
What was your first emotional trigger with wine ?
"The wine that made me fall in love with wine you mean? My answer is simple: Moscato d’Asti. If my first sip had been a powerful Tempranillo, a harsh Barolo or a light, clean Pinot Noir, I think my career would have taken a completely different turn. But in this case, this lightly sparkling Moscato, with its sweetness and lightness, had a huge influence on my tastes."
What was your first global sommelier competition ?
"For me, every competition is an important opportunity to learn. Being a finalist at the international competition this year in Paris, after a long, three-year selection process, was an incredible experience. By viewing the video of my performance, I was finally able to identify what needs to be improved – the tempo, the tone of my voice and certain details that eluded me at the time. Nina Jensen and Raimonds Tomson are outstanding sommeliers, the word “inspiring” certainly suits them. My mentor always reminds me that when you take part in a competition, the aim is to win. Even if I had never imagined being a champion, that is now clearly my objective."
What was your first moment of doubt ?
“Nothing humbles you more than blind tasting. Sommeliers can appear self-assured in competitions, but the truth is that the more I learn about wine, the more I realise how little I know. There are so many factors that influence the flavour of a wine. In fact, that’s what makes wine so magical. I established a very strict timetable and I keep to it, spending 8 to 10 hours a day studying the theory of wine because I realised that was my weak spot. And I’m not comfortable with cocktails either. In fact, it was during the cocktail preparation test in the Best Sommelier of the World competition that I really lost my bearings.”
What is your first – and best – piece of advice about wine ?
“The Hong Kong wine market is extremely mature, particularly because the peninsula does not levy any tax on wine. It is a dynamic market with many collectors. I am a wine consultant for restaurants and as an Asian who also produces wine in Japan, I strongly recommend trying Japanese wines. For example, Domaine Takahiko’s Nana-Tsu-Mori, a Pinot Noir from Hokkaido, served with chutoro (fatty tuna) sushi makes an amazing pairing. For something a little more insane and explosive on the palate, go for Grace Wine – a white wine made from the Koshu grape variety in Yamanashi – served with crispy sakura shrimps and caviar on rice paper. I also have a soft spot for a very special wine from Bali – Pino de Bali, which is iconic of the island. This complex, deliciously sweet fortified wine is crafted from Muscat St Vallier and Alphonse Lavallee grapes then enriched with mature grape-based brandy. It makes the perfect match for tiramisu or a coffee or chocolate-based dessert. It is time to give Asian wines a chance!”
What was your first wine as a winegrower ?
“It is a collaboration between me, my friend Kenneth and Takashi Yokomachi, the wingrower at Vinoble Vineyard and Winery situated in Miyoshi, Hiroshima. Last year, I took part in harvesting and pruning and we produced 900 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc and 300 bottles of Chardonnay for the 2023 label. The official launch will take place in 2024. I discovered that I really enjoy the job. I like being in contact with nature and I have a deep respect for it. I feel I’m in harmony when I spend time in the vineyard. If the opportunity came along, I would really like to become a full-time winegrower, perhaps even open a little bar to welcome my friends and guests. Who knows?”
Article - Élodie Louchez
After being editor-in-chief for the NRJ radio group, then for society and cultural programmes for France 3, France 5 and Pink TV with Michel Field, Elodie Louchez is now a journalist and author for discovery magazines and society documentaries, with a particular focus on ecofeminism. She is a member of the natural wine producers’ organisation and five years ago, with her partner Marie Carroget, she founded the first exhibition for female natural winegrowers in Nantes – Canons.
Illustration - Élodie Flavenot
Élodie is a travelling artist and illustrator whose inspiration comes from nature and the cultures that surround us. Her creations come to life on a tablet or in her travel journeys during her explorations. With a heightened sense of colour and texture, she enjoys playing with various types of medium to translate an idea or a recollection into an image, or even specifications to be complied with, adding a dash of poetry.
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