Talk with Adam Price

ADAM PRICE

Because I couldn’t decide what to do, I decided to do everything, but if you wake me up at four o'clock in the morning, I would say that I'm a writer. I have always been a storyteller at heart, whether through scripts, novels, theater plays or even operas. My primary vocation is screenwriting, and the series Borgen was certainly a high point. However, my love for storytelling isn't confined to just one medium. Together with my brother James, I run a few restaurants in Copenhagen and we are also TV chefs: The process of creating a dish and pairing it with the right wine, much like writing a story, involves layering flavors, textures, and emotions.

Each venture I pursue weaves a unique thread into the tapestry of my life. Crafting scripts, innovating in playwriting, and creating culinary pairings—all passions feed into one another.

ADAM PRICE

I inherited my passion for flavors from my father, who grew up poor with a single mother who was a dancer. Despite their financial struggles, she was a talented cook. My father loved food so much that instead of bedtime stories, he asked her to read recipes to him. He decided from a young age he didn’t want to go hungry again and if he made money one day, he would always eat well. He became an actor and a director, but as a hobby, he also wrote about food throughout his life. Inspired by this, I began working as a food journalist at a young age, becoming a restaurant critic for the newspaper Politiken at 25. I spent about 20 years reviewing restaurants, a period during which I honed my appreciation for the culinary arts and the intricate pairing of food and wine. Transitioning from a restaurant critic to a restaurateur was a bold and unusual career move—some might say it was almost like committing public suicide—but it was a risk that allowed me to fully embrace my passion and bring my unique perspective to the business.

ADAM PRICE

From a young age, I had the privilege of tasting unique wines, thanks to my grandfather on my mother's side, a prominent lawyer in Denmark who often received classic French wine crates as part of his fees. On my mother's birthdays, we would enjoy wines from her birth year. So I predominantly drank only French wine. However, around 2000-2002, the new Nordic wave swept through Scandinavian cuisine with the rise of Noma. This transformative period emphasized local, seasonal ingredients and innovative techniques, shifting our focus to wines that complemented this evolving palate. The popularity of natural wines surged, revolutionizing the Scandinavian wine scene entirely.

ADAM PRICE

Yes, I happen to have a strong liking for natural wines. These wines are characterized by minimal intervention and a focus on organic and biodynamic practices, aligning perfectly with the new Nordic philosophy of purity and authenticity. I have a preference for organic produce in general—not just because it makes the world a greener place, but because the people who grow and produce these items make it hard on themselves. They choose to specialize and strive to be better.

Pairing natural wines with Nordic cuisine is particularly rewarding. It’s not only that I drink natural wine, but I do drink quite a lot of it. I have my favorite producers, and we're about to enjoy a bottle from one of them. It's a testament to the commitment and passion that goes into creating something truly exceptional: Gravner Ribolla 2014, an aged orange wine from Josko Gravner.

ADAM PRICE

Actually one of my favorite wine tricks involves this wine. While it's not as intense as Jura wines, it does have a slight oxidative style. When one tastes it 'naked,' these oxidative notes are quite pronounced in the first sip. However, the trick happens when one pairs it with hard cheese. The wine undergoes a remarkable transformation.

We should start by tasting it on its own, in glasses specially designed by Josko Gravner himself. Then, we should enjoy a small piece of Pecorino Romano cheese and witness how the wine evolves and enhances in complexity. It's a delightful pairing that showcases how food can elevate the drinking experience, revealing new dimensions and nuances in the wine.

ADAM PRICE

Indeed, I have quite a collection—I believe I own more than 130 books about wine. If I had to single out two that have been fairly influential in my life, the first would be Politikens Vinbog, a classic and incredibly useful wine book written in Danish. This was the very book I first studied when I embarked on my journey as a food critic.

The second book that has left a lasting impression is A Scent of Champagne by Richard Juhlin. This luxurious volume delves into the world of champagne, exploring its elegance and intricacies in a profound and captivating way.

ADAM PRICE

Between my home and my summer house I have around… 1400 bottles!