In the cellar at Villa René Lalique 

Hidden talent 

From the black granite floor to the white, maple-wood ceiling, the Swiss architect Mario Botta modelled the basement wine cellar after a cathedral crypt. Subsequently, Romain Iltis supervised its lay-out. “I have a special bond with this cellar because I have been here since its inception. Even though it is a modern cellar, we have successfully given it a soul. For me, it is packed full of history and exudes incredible energy, but at the same time it is an oasis of peace where you can collect your thoughts. It is not just a storage area, it’s also a living space where wine waits peacefully for the moment when it will spark emotions. Ultimately, it’s like a preparatory antechamber”. 

Ebb and flow 

The vertical displays of top Bordeaux chateaux from the personal collection of owner Silvio Denz stand alongside wines from across the globe, from California to Germany via all the French wine regions. This extensive collection is not cast in stone, however, and is constantly being enhanced. “This is what I do every day. You get swept up by new releases, emerging trends and changing tastes. The cellar has a life of its own and is constantly changing. The well-known names don’t need us. Our heartfelt mission is to find the future star, the wineries that progress out of the spotlight with talent and great sensitivity. In Alsace alone, I could mention wineries like Henry Fuchs, Mader and Mélanie Pfister. 

The soils as a starting point 

One of the establishment’s defining features is its focus on the Alsace wine region. It showcases nearly 400 wines mirroring the region’s geological diversity that shapes the abundant flavours in its wines. “When I present a wine at a table, I try and explain the influence of geology. People often talk about terroir, but the question is, how does it translate into the wine? It’s a shared approach where I show people what happens, the actual effect on the wine and how the texture of a dish complements the pairing. This variety also helps us prove that Alsace wines mature amazingly well. This is part of our maturation policy with wines at their peak, ready to secure a place at the table at just the right moment”. 

A harmonious duet 

Romain Iltis initially began training as a chef and therefore has a unique mindset which resonates well with chef Paul Stradner and allows the two to work closely on food and wine pairings: “When a dish is created, I taste it beforehand to define a style of wine – sandstone or limestone soil, Pinot gris or Riesling. When I taste a dish, or even when I read its name, I quickly visualise its composition and identify the components that could upset the harmony with the wine. I take a constructive approach – I aim for the combination to work perfectly. For example, if the chef wants to add freshness with a sauce, lemongrass might not pair well with wine. Paul Stradner’s cuisine is extremely refined, with complementary textures and staple ingredients taken to the pinnacle of excellence, like wine in some ways!” .

Time and temperature

Front of house, a cabinet encases a EuroCave wine cellar, offering patrons a glimpse of the impressive selection of bottles, whilst also showcasing the house wines from owner Silvio Denz’s vineyards. “It also means we have fast-moving wines to hand, along with those served by the glass. We opted for a combination of convenience and design, which is why we chose this EuroCave. Because it is located on the ground floor, it illustrates our constant focus on the ideal storage and serving temperature of the wines, which is of paramount importance!”